老師跟我們說:進行一項主題的研究,文獻資料的搜集和整理是必要的,這樣才能「站在巨人的肩膀上」,所以我們透過文章書籍和網路研讀了一些「臺南刺繡」相關的資料,將這些資料簡單地整理過後,我們希望讓參訪這個網站的人,可以有個整體的概念,可以更了解我們專題的用心。
The teacher said to us: To do a subject study, collecting and arranging the literature is necessary. We can then "stand on the shoulders of giants." Therefore, we have read some information related to “Tainan embroidery” through articles, books and internet. After sorting this information, we hope that the people who visit this website can have a
fundamental concept and realize the efforts of our project.
誠福繡莊的繡架(鄭老師拍)
根據維基百科記載,
刺繡
是針線在織物上繡制的各種裝飾圖案的總稱,民間傳統手工藝之一。同時,刺繡與養蠶事業是緊密相連的,所以刺繡又可以稱為絲繡,並且中國是世界上最早發現與使用蠶絲的國家。根據考古發掘的實物證實,刺繡在中國至少二三千年歷史。
中國的刺繡究竟源自哪個朝代?我們現在所能見到的最早的刺繡恐怕要算殷商和西周的了,從那個時期的出土文物來看,粘附在泥土上的絲織物的紋路和刺繡的花紋依稀可見。
According to Wikipedia, embroidery is the general name of a variety of decorative patterns embroidered on the fabric, one of the folk traditional handicrafts. At the same time, embroidery and sericulture business are closely connected, so the embroidery can also be called Chinese silk embroidery. China is the first country to discover and use silk in the world. According to the physical evidence of archaeological excavations, embroidery has existed at least two or three thousands years in China.
Which dynasty did Chinese embroidery originate from? The earliest embroidery we can see now is probably counted from the Shang and Western Zhou dynasties. From the unearthed relics of that period, the patterns of silk fabrics glued to the soil and the embroidered pattern are clearly visible.
取自維基百科katorisi的作品
中國刺繡主要有:蘇州的蘇繡、湖南的湘繡、四川的蜀繡和廣東的粵繡(廣繡)四大名繡。此外,還有北京的京繡、溫州的甌繡、開封的汴繡、上海的顧繡和苗族的苗繡,產地不同,風格各異。
Chinese embroidery has four main famous embroidery: Suzhou Embroidery(Su Xiu), Hunan embroidery(Xiang Xiu), Sichuan embroidery(Shu Xiu) and Guangdong embroidery(Yue Xiu/Guang Xiu). In addition, there are also Beijing's Beijing embroidery, Wenzhou’s Ou embroidery, Kaifeng embroidery, Shanghai's Gu embroidery and Miao’s Miao embroidery. The different regions create different styles.
刺繡的技法有:錯針繡、亂針繡、網繡、滿地繡、鎖絲、納絲、納錦、平金、影金、盤金、鋪絨、刮絨、戳紗、灑線、挑花等等,刺繡的用途主要包括生活裝飾,如服裝、生活用品包括衣服、床上用品、檯布等;舞台、藝術裝飾。
The embroidery techniques are: wrong needle embroidery, disorderly needle embroidery, net embroidery, Montreal embroidery, lock silk, Nas, Na jin, Ping jin, Shadow gold, plate gold, plush, scraping, poke yarn, sprinkle line, cross-stitch and so on. The use of embroidery mainly includes life decoration, such as clothing, daily necessities including clothes, bedding, tablecloth, stage, art decoration...etc.
臺南是臺灣最早的刺繡發源地,而刺繡亦是臺南最具特色的傳統工藝之一。(臺南學電子報〉第179期(學術文摘)臺南地區的刺繡技藝的文章中,可看到刺繡隨著閩粵移民傳入臺灣,並隨著經濟富裕而普遍。臺灣繡普遍被認為構圖較繁雜,配色較強烈,金銀繡線使用比例較高,立體形式較多樣,形成臺灣本土的刺繡風格。
Tainan is the earlist birthplace of embroidery in Taiwan, and embroidery is one of the most specialist traditional crafts in Tainan. In the article of Tainan embroidery skills in <Tainan Studies Newsletter> No. 179 (Academic Abstracts), we can see the embroidery was introduced into Taiwan with the immigration of Fujian and Guangdong, and it becomes popular with the economic prosperity. Taiwan embroidery is generally considered that the pattern is complicated and the color is more intense. The use of gold and silver lines are at higher proportion, and stereoscopic form is more diverse. These characteristics mentioned above represent the style of Taiwan's native embroidery.
龍王──光彩繡莊的作品(取自臺南學部落)
連橫所著《臺灣通史》說道:「臺灣婦女不事紡織,而喜刺繡,刺繡之巧,幾邁蘇杭,名媛相見,競誇女紅,衣裳裁製,亦多自製。」刺繡隨著閩粵移民傳入臺灣,並隨著經濟富裕而普遍。
臺灣繡普遍被認為構圖較繁雜,配色較強烈,金銀繡線使用比例較高,立體形式較多樣,形成臺灣本土的刺繡風格。清朝時,織繡業在臺南應已大興,且名聲遠揚。
Lian Heng's "Taiwan History" said: "Taiwanese women do not like to spin and weave , but like to make embroidery. The skill of embroidery in Taiwan may be compared with Suzhou and Hangzhou. The socialites praise this needlework for its ingenuity. Besides, clothes tailoring is uaually homemade." 」 The embroidery was introduced into Taiwan with the immigration of Fujian and Guangdong, and it becomes popular with the economic prosperity. Taiwan embroidery is generally considered that the pattern is complicated and the color is more intense. The use of gold and silver lines are at higher proportion, and stereoscopic form is more diverse. These characteristics mentioned above represent the style of Taiwan's native embroidery.
During the Qing Dynasty, the embroidery industry in Tainan have been prosperous.
當時的繡莊所製作的產品除供民生用品外,也包括喜慶、祭典所用的繡品,如八仙綵、桌裙、旗幟及佛衣等,至日治時期繡莊在臺南仍是重要產業,當時最熱鬧的宗教活動「迎媽祖」所發展出來的俗語:「臺南迎媽祖,無旗不有」,顯示當時出團的各隊伍皆有旗號代表其商團及廟宇,可見刺繡在臺南是最具特色的傳統工藝。
At that time, embroidery village not only produced some daily necessaries but also festive, ceremonial use of embroidery, such as "the Banner of the Eight Immortals", table skirts, flags and Buddha clothing, etc. Embroiderey village was still an important industry in Tainan during the period of Japanese occupation. At that time, there was a saying developed from the specialist religious activities "Welcome Mazu." And, the saying was that “There are flags everywhere when they welcome Mazu in Tainan.” Every group had their own style of flag. These flags represent different business groups and temples. Thus the embroidery was the most specialist traditional crafts in Tainan.
早期臺南市各繡莊的工藝技術與風格基本上承襲閩繡,例如日治時期神彩繡莊的師傅王衣春即是來自福州,及民國三十八年從福建省林森縣來臺的嚴梅波、嚴訓琪、嚴訓祥、嚴訓祺及陳其華等人。由於這一批刺繡師傅的門徒眾多,學藝之後又各立門戶,再開店營生,又收學徒,形成臺南繡莊技藝傳承的主脈。
Early in Tainan, the skill and style of each embroidery village is basically inherited from Fujian embroidery. For example, during the Japanese colonial period , the master of Shen Tsai embroidery village "Wang Yi-chun" was from Fuzhou. And Yan Meibo, Yan Xunchi, Yan Xunxiang, Yan Xunqi and Chen Qihua, who came to Taiwan from Linsen County in Fujian Province during the Republic of China thirty-eight years. This group of embroidery Masters had numerous disciples. After training, the apprentices became professionals or even masters. Then they had workshop for a living and received apprentices. This was the way the skill of Tainan embroidery village passed down.
像我們這次專題研究的主角林玉泉老師便是嚴訓祥老師傅的徒弟。
The major character "Lin,Yu-Quan " is the student of Yan Xunxiang.
參考資料來源:
維基百科-刺繡。網址→
https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/刺繡
「府城光彩繡莊」林婕瑀創新「映縷門」結合府城現代刺繡術
http://blog.xuite.net/jin117/blog/206456393
台南市文化局-台南學部落。網址→
http://nanying.pixnet.net/blog/post/40315783